A bit more about our stay in San Diego: After John installed the engine heat exchanger for the second time, he discovered that the thermostat in the refrigerator had died. Luckily, our friend Ann had arrived and with her car, he was able to go to a refrigeration shop in National City. It turns out the shop serves the US Navy all over the Pacific and had every imaginable part. The additional time in San Diego provided John the time to ramble through a Napa Auto Store for assorted hoses, get a 3/8" acrylic panel for our fuel inspection window (minor leak), and visit the Bank of West Marine at least a half dozen more times. I enjoyed finding the used bookstore across the street from Red's cafe. Red's cafe was a wonderful discovery as Internet connection was essentially free, although their scramble egg tacos were delicious as was their coffee. Ann and John made luscious sounds as they sipped and remarked at the smoothness of the coffee.

For our fellow cruisers: Walking from the Harbor Police dock into town is easy and enables visits to stores (Bank of West Marine, Downwind Marine, Post Office, Bank, Trader Morts, Bakery, Restaurants, used Bookstore, Vons Market). John and Jim bought a great set of lures ($60) from a shop called Hook, Line and Sinker (walking distance). One needs to take a bus to get to the better grocery store (Henry's), Napa Auto, Circuit City-electronics store, new bookstore (B&N) or Radio Shak, Mexican Consulate, Fisheries Office, airport. One needs a car to get to Costco (there are several, even one with a Belgium Chocolate Shop), Whole Foods, Trader Joes, Target, and Ranch 99.

Did we tell you that a fishing license is required whether you fish or not? If you have a dingy on board, that counts ($100USA). Each member of the crew counts ($50/person). We had to cough up $300 for the fishing permits. While in Mexico, we will be eating the very expensive Mexican Bonito, Dorado, Tuna and Jackfish. As our friend Jim remarked in his last email to us: "Finally got the fishing gear out. After a false alarm with kelp, we caught a 26" Mexican bonito. Dressed out it was 2.6 lbs of meat. Let's see... $215 for Mexican Fishing license...something like $385 for fishing gear... $600 to catch 2.6lbs of fish...Tonight's dinner works out to be: $230/lb. Oh, well. At least with every fish caught, the price of fish will come down." However, the thrill of fishing after twenty years of deferral was worth it for Jim (and I might add, for John when he caught his). Now the boats are exchanging recipes by email to eat all this Mexican Bonito...sweet 'n sour, satay sauce, teriyaki sauced and grilled, baked, fried, steamed and of course Fish Tacos!

If you don't have your Ham Radio license and access to "winlink.org" or signed up for "sail mail.org" email from your boat, we encourage you to get one of these. A new dimension to our voyage this year (as opposed to our voyage in 1991) is the abundance of communications done while under sail and between cruising boats. We have grown dependent on check-in's with other cruisers (like the recipes and fish stories) as well as getting that extra weather news (in addition to Don's weather forecast on the Blue Water Net, Baha Net and the Weather FAX system) via the email connections. We love to receive email, even short ones. It is a disappointing day when we hear nothing from our new friends cruising or our old friends at home. Thanks to all who have been sending us emails. You know who you are and we are extremely grateful to you. We do get lonely out here on the big blue.

Special THANKS to Doug Clark and Jonathon Taylor for their consistent and persistent contact via the single side band and ham radio frequencies. It is a comfort to have them by our side and to hear of the SF Bay Area and the familiarities of home.

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This morning, a kayak approached our boat. He introduced himself as Miguel. Miguel lives in the town with his family, but he wasn't a fishermen or one who sold fuel. His friends did those jobs. We aren't exactly sure what his intentions were in boarding the boat, but he seemed impressed with the boat' s size and interior and wanted to chat with the family. I had my apprehensions, as we have read travel tales, of "scout's" sent to scope out a cruising boat for future piracy. We understand, that this happens all around the world (and even in USA waters). After a half-hour, Miguel offered to bring us a platter of his special Mexican Machacas (dried fish with potato, onion on a tortilla). We weren't sure about this, but we flowed with the offer and the conversation. He casually browsed John's navigation books, picking out a Yachting magazine and asking if he could have it for the school. John gave him the magazine and Miguel was on his way to the next boat.

We were a bit puzzled by the visit. This was a situation that raised our awareness, to what might be, language and cultural differences, but maybe not. We could feel that something odd surrounded the visit.

The visit enlisted a family conversation regarding trusting one's personal judgment when it comes to a "stranger". And further, how we respond, whether it is to embrace someone with open arms or extend a cautious reservation. The brief interlude enabled us an opportunity to discuss the honed sensitivity one needs when one meets a stranger. We spoke of our prejudices and fears and how we deal with them as we face a stranger. And we listened as the girls recalled their observations of the event, their attitudes and their participation.

Later, another cruiser shared with John, that Miguel, is the combination of the town "greeter" and the town "beggar". He comes to cruising boats to gather a T-shirt or a magazine, but offers no services or wares. He sounds harmless.

Just as I write this, it is 11pm. Suddenly, John rises from his lair in the pilot berth, as he hears an approaching motor. Is it a panga (a small Mexican boat). As the sound of the motor heightens, he sees nothing. Then, at our stern is a panga and no lights on it. John crouches behind our cockpit door (where there is a window for viewing out the stern). From the panga, a flashlight shines at our stern and into the cockpit. No words spoken, the panga circles our boat, in silence, then takes off. John moves into the cockpit, takes out the night scope and from our cockpit, follows the boat as it heads off to another cruising boat. The panga circles another cruiser's boat. On the boat he reads "Bahia Tortugas". The girls lay in their beds wondering what is going on. Gaby asks if it might be the local harbor police? Maybe. John and I wonder if they shined the light to gather our boat name and note that we have a USA flag blowing, but our courtesy flag (Mexican) is not yet hung. We plan to check in at Cabo San Lucas. Unlike others, we chose to by pass the check in point in Ensenda.

We are all a bit spooked, by this turn of events. We wonder what this was about, but we won't know until the morning when we confer with others. Upon this, all our senses are alerted and we will sleep a little less soundly tonight and a little more protective of our home. The doors and windows are locked. We are home, but not home.

In the morning light, all is well. Yesterday brought reminders that we are the aliens in a foreign land. We are the ones who must walk gently. We are the ones who are at the grace of their homeland. And we always have the ability to pull up the anchor and move on.

The northwesterly is here. We watch as the cruisers from Scotland, Bill and Jane have pulled anchor and are moving south. We consider it, but John wants to repair the leak in the inspection window of the fuel tanks. Manana, manana, manana.

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We made it to Bahia Tortugas, three days and nights of sailing for us. On the last day, I did the morning shift (1-5am) then John did the rest of the day (5am-4pm), by nightfall he was one very tired puppy and slept at least twelve hours straight. The temperatures are a comfortable 70 degree F, but the bay water still isn't quite warm enough to swim in.

Tomorrow, we will explore the beaches and accomplish a few more boat repair projects. John needs to connect the salt-water galley pump, replace the fuel tank inspection cover, and check the valves in the engine. The engine seems to be making a bit more noise than usual - is that really possible! - an would like to check on the source.

I have done the usual laundry, about 5 loads today. Yes, the boat looks like a Chinese Laundry. Luckily, the girls have been helping me with this chore.

The girls accomplished 4 lessons in the three days so now they have three days off to explore. We have been having nightly challenges with the Binary Arts series: Rush Hour 3, Safari, and Stormy Seas.

John caught his first fish. Since it was after my watch, I missed seeing the Mexican Bonita. Sami said it was about 12" long. Gaby said it was about 18" long. And the fisherman/Captain said it was 24" long. I am not too sure whom to believe. When I awoke the fish had already had its deadening potion (Vodka), less messy then the swift head blundering, and was awaiting my culinary magic. We later marinated it in teriyaki sauce and BBQ it on the stern pulpit. The Bonita has a dense texture for fish meat, but palatable, especially with a complimenting Japanese Napa Cabbage Salad.

The quiet of the anchorage is incredible. I have missed this treasured resource, silence. Occasionally, we hear the Pacific Ocean and feel its gentle roll in this safe anchorage. This night, bounded by a rugged mountain range set amongst low-slung stars. There is a peacefulness that I remember from our honeymoon voyage in 1991. It was quite wonderful to see that the landscape remained stunning and raw.

The village remained rambling with more unfinished then finished. Sometimes, it was hard to tell what was occupied and what was deserted, a home from a shop. Not surprising, a large church dominates the community, although there are schools, a bakery, and shops supporting a population of 5,000. This is a fuel station for many of the coastal fishermen. Fishing being the economic support of the village. The community is quite accustom to cruisers coming into the anchorage. They sell us their fuel and bread (pan caliente) with ease, tolerating our broken Spanish and clumsy ways. A smile and children go a long way to breaking the ice for us. There is also an internet cafe with high speed satellite connection!

For those who are planning to cruise next season, a fresh sandwich roll is 40 cents and a liter of diesel is 55 cents, US.

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