Log:
November, 2003
November, 2003
celebrating 1400's
We Celebrated Thanksgiving with sliced turkey lunch meat, cranberry sauce, baked potatoes, yams, white rice, ramen, and leftover pumpkin pie from Ann. I promised Gabe and Sam we would do something special when we reach Turtle Bay. Gabe and Sam watched Santa Clause 2, while Judy and I did watches. Judy did remarkably well driving and dealing with her retching pot. Today is sunny and warm, 20 degrees C. We are happy to have left San Diego and are very much looking forward to Mexico.
Hope all is well, much love,
JJGSWe are partially experiencing the South African life value of "Ubuntu". In a recent O magazine article it quoted from Desmond Tutu's book No Future Without Forgiveness: "Ubuntu is very difficult to render into a Western language. It speaks of the very essence of being human.... You share what you have. It is to say, 'my humanity is caught up, is inextricably bound up, in yours. We belong in a bundle of life. We say 'A person is a person through other persons.' It is not, 'I think therefore I am.' It says rather. 'I am human because I belong. I participate, I share.' A person with ubuntu is open and available to others, affirming of others, does not feel threatened that others are able and good, for he or she has a proper self-assurance that comes from knowing that he or she belongs in a greater whole and is diminished when others are humiliated or diminished, when others are tortured or oppressed, or treated as if they were less than who they are." We experienced this with the South Africans we met last December. We are experiencing it with the International Community that we are meeting currently. In times when wars still ravage societies and anger laces people's lives as they simply commute to work, we are filled with hope.
We have many projects that we will defer: installing the auto pilot, repairing a jib sail, and sewing settee covers and mosquito prohibitors. "Manana, Manana, Manana."
I trimmed the girl's hair on the dock in preparation of the heat wave. They both are very glad that hair grows back. "Oh, Mom!" Just a little too short, luckily hair does grow back.
Tomorrow, we move to La Playa anchorage for the weekend. We look forward to the arrival of Ann. The weekend will be joyful.
As we leave San Diego, we are thankful and indebted to Laurie, Allari and Timmy Smith, for their generous and abundant help while we have been in San Diego. Thank you for you're invaluable help provisioning the boat (We will never go to another Ranch 99 on a Sunday-ever!!! Too crazy making!) and finding replacement hose & parts (farewell-Home Depot and Napa Auto parts). Most of all we are grateful for the time spent laughing and sharing; it brought warmth to our daily lives. We've never seen the girls so chatty as with their Coz LA! We wish Laurie & Timmy, well with the pending arrival of "Wee Angus". They will make fine parents.
Thank you for being in Our Circle. Happy Thanksgiving. We have much to be grateful for this year and every day. "Hasta Manana".
John is especially enjoying the sharing of stories and community intercourse. He is quite the chatty-Johnny. He has met several couples and single men who are in their late 60's or 70's cruising. Now he doesn't feel that sense of urgency to do this NOW. Although, we admit that it was right for the time with the girls (at their ages) that really triggered us to do this while we are at our prime earning position, rather than when we retired.
We invited the cruisers on SV Genesis and M/V Manana over for our first on board potluck. It was delightful. We had four children in the guest berth playing LEGO building and watching Monsters Inc. They ate dinner and relished the candy bin. We had seven adults around our main salon table savoring grilled steak, Portobello mushrooms, Japanese Napa cabbage salad, sushi, and mashed yams. Not a bad menu to pull from three boats and our limited galleys.
Gaby made a batch of her famous lemon drifts. We added some apple crisp, Madeline's, and oatmeal cookies, dried dates and dried figs to the dessert platter. Obviously, we had good food, fun times and lots of story telling. John even admitted to the Tale Fourth of July in Point Richmond on Mister Ed. That fateful story of the boat escaping and chumming up to the Chevron Dock and the high voltage box. Oh, the Tales we can tell.
Jordan (13, SV Genesis) had to build a model of a section of the Great Wall of China for school. He used Sami's LEGO people as scale models. The model had survived several passages and finally when they reached here, at dock, he was able to finish it, photograph it, and submit it for teacher advisor review. It was very cool. I queried him with what penetrated the wall? What made the intention of the wall fail? He guessed weapons, horses, natural forces, and and construction errors. "Nope, bribery provide access to the Great Wall." I suggested to him that he never underestimate the power of people to bribe or negotiate, to get what they want. Everyone has a price. Bribing their way onto the Great Wall, the Huns took on the Emperor's warriors. And Bush thinks a Star Wars Defense System will work!!!! Ha! If only we learned from history.
Sami & Gaby met Jessi (8, M/V Williwaw). Jessi lives on a 47' motor yacht. We are seeing many more motor yachts than twelve years ago. The girls spent endless hours on the dock catching fish and crabs. I have some great shots with them hanging over the side of the dock with scoops in hand. Jessi has been cruising since May. Her family went up to the northwest and then turned around. The family is very enthusiastic about the life, even though they have had their fair share of woes. Their desire is to stay out cruising for at least four years and to make it around the world in that time. In addition to Jessi, they have a son, Jason. He likes to play guitar. Several times, Jessi came on board to watch a DVD with Jordan, G & S.
For a few days, it was a great motivator to getting school done by noon in order to have time with the other kids on the dock. Jesse left this morning to head south. The girls are holding recess at the jungle gyms at the nearby hotel and building sand castles with Jordan. Sami did a sand angel. And they all built huge mountains and tunnels. Jordan leaves today. We experience daily goodbyes ("see you down south").
There is a bittersweet impermanence with the cruising life that I struggle to accept, but do. Living in the present and always extending a helping hand is essential to this life. The lifestyle is an intense, instant bonding and then a sudden separation.
Our engine heat exchanger is fixed; we soon will be able to start our motor. As reported in the last installment, a week ago, John discovered a cracked nut in the heat exchanger. A terrific auto mechanic shop in Escondido custom makes parts and was able to weld on a new nut, clean and paint the heat exchanger. By Saturday, John was installing it and then the next nut broke. Bummer. On Monday, he called up the shop that picked up the part then they had it back to us on Wednesday. It arrived late in the afternoon. John worked into the evening and will finalize the installation this morning.
We had to beg two more days stay from the Harbor Police; so granted! We will leave tomorrow for La Playa Cove. We expect to stay there only through the weekend. We hope to be off to Mexico on Monday morning.
On Sunday, we were visited by old friends, Marilyn & Randy. It was delightful to catch up after so many years of going our separate ways. They live down here now, Palo Alto transplants. They are loving the warmth and the rural aspects of Carlsbad. They aren't so keen on the San Diego traffic which is worst than the SF Bay Area. We will have their spirits and well wishes with us as we enjoy their gift of Advent Calendars at Xmas time. Thanks for being so thoughtful and taking the time to renew our friendship.
Sami's orthodontist appointment went well. Dr. Andrews was able to check her retainer and the expansion of her mouth. He said that she was doing so well as a responsible patient that she should be able to shift to a routine of only needing to wear it, at night by mid-January. He also gave us perimeters for how to deal with her teeth for the next year while we are away. And the best news, he did this pro bono (no charge). What an angel. We would like to thank our dentist, Dr. Tim Mulcahy and his office, for helping us at the last minute arrange for all the x-rays, extraction of three teeth, and referral to Dr. Quo, all in the last month before departure from Oyster Cove Marina, SSF.
Since they will be replacing and welding on a new nut, John will have them weld on a new piece to get rid of the three large clamps and the need for the "coat hanger" that held the intake hose to the exhaust mechanism. Yes, "coat hanger" was the attachment mechanism. He thought it prudent to replace it. One has to admit it has lasted a good many miles, since Encanto has been around the world and now down the California coast. I took all wire hangers off the boat (rust concerns), but maybe that was not such a good idea.
Now, we must go to the Harbor Police Office, and beg a few more days beyond the ten-day limit since we cannot move the boat. Guess they don't have any choice, but to let us stay. Anyway, an unexpected twist, but the optimistic perspective is that we are happy it all happened here where we are safely tied up, rather than out on the oceans, trying to get someplace under motor sail.
Other boat mechanical news, John's work towards installing the autopilot, has lead to closer observation of our steering mechanism. As has been the continual tale of Encanto, we are finding "interesting" and often clever designs for the steering contraption. We are debating if we can "afford" (time, money and risk) to replace the steering mechanism. It is still in serviceable condition, but is another one of Serge's installations that will need attention. Life is a continuum of trade-offs.
We thank everyone who has dropped us a message on email. Having our ham radio license, enabling us access via winlink to email on the boat, anytime is incredibly wonderful. We love to hear from everyone, even if brief. We are daily grateful to Wim for maintaining the website, as our friends and family are really appreciating the contact and vicarious living of life via us. We are grateful to Doug and Jonathon for their ham radio and single side band weekly (sometimes daily) check in. There is nothing more comforting than the sound of their voice at 0645 or 2100. Homesickness for news and friends is surely eased when we hear from those of you sending to the winlink email address. Thanks to everyone.
Jean Pierre (JP), Sailing Vessel-Genesis, and Jim (Trawler-Manana), are sharing with us how they obtain Internet access. They have had more experience coming down the coast from British Columbia with cyber cafés. Jim was successful adding a smart card for wireless Internet use at the cyber cafés when they were in ports of call. This is how they update their website. JP has had good luck with a small, portable, Radio Shack antenna connector that permits Internet use at the cyber cafés with the flexibility of locating the antenna away from computer. Frequent conversations among the cruisers are how to get inexpensive or free wireless connection. We understand that Starbucks and McDonald's offer wireless connection and a few small cafes in San Diego. Mailbox Etc. can be the most expensive. An affordable access to a wireless connection on the boat seems to be the next "desirable", among boaters. Many boaters seem to have a single side band or ham radio and a lap top computer on board. The laptop has been an essential for us as we read weather Faxes and store reference materials on it (Atlas, Encyclopedia, etc.). We have a full size computer on-board, which consumes more electrical power and space than the laptops. We expect we will give it away to a Mexican village school along the way. Laptops seem to be the way to go for everyone on board.
We rise to the sun these days; the family is curled up into their books. It is time for me to join them. It is another sunny, but cool, beautiful day, temperature- 64 degree F/ 17 degree C.
John enjoys being here with all the cruisers. Everyday he is Mr. Gregarious, chatting away with the various cruisers about their boats, their tales of their ride down the coast, and their woes. Everyone is at the Harbor Police dock to do boat projects and provision. He's being generous and shares his perspective, his knowledge, skill and experience with others, enabling them to resolve problems with their water maker, engines, refrigeration, stove, or attachment of this or that to their boat. It is great to see how it is a mutual exchange of information and aid. This is the part of community that we remember and are grateful still exists with the Cruising Community.
The Cruising Community is small. One makes friends quickly and intensely, usually with sincere instant trust. We learn a cruiser's boat type, boat name, then the crew's first name. Rarely, until many meetings at various ports of call and after a shared happy hour (never dinner on the first date), do we learn a person's last name. After several conversations, one may learn what professional career a cruiser had in their previous life. The shaping of the person is not based on dress, status, or income. It is based on boating experience, hardcore experience either in preparations for the cruise or ability to deal with what is brought forth as one cruises.
We've noticed that everyone loves kids; many of those who are "grandparents" approach our boat just to ask about the kids and how they like the voyage. Many mention how their grandchildren are quite envious to be Gaby or Sami. Len, SV Gypsy Wind, even made Sami an anchor ornament of string and rope as a birthday present and to wish her well on her sail. It is refreshing to feel others embrace our family so easily and to extend with an outstretched hand.
Since we have the generous "wheels" and chauffer service of Laurie and Timmy Allari-Smith, in this port of call, we are extending the gift to help others with their provisioning lists. Later today, I have the list of three boats, desiring Asian Food products. I am off to Ranch 99 in a few hours. Yahoo. How many bottles of Kewi Japanese Mayonnaise, sacks of short grain sushi rice, hoisin sauce and crates of boxed tofu can I fit into Laurie's small BMW? Yes, we have almost finished our 20 lbs of rice. Under sail rice became a very necessary and essential comfort food for all. As Baloo Bear would say: "Oh, those bare necessities of life, those simple bare necessities of life."
My mom would be proud of me; I can now make Cha Sui (Chinese barbeque pork). The next culinary challenge will be to make the steam bun (bread) part of a Cha Sui Bow. My family waits with salivating anticipation. They miss their Pao Pao's Cha Sui Bow and dim sum. They miss Grandma Amber's yummy dinner rolls. Both are on the list for me to make.
Speaking of Sami, She had a terrific birthday; better than she expected. She wrote a composition for school and it was about the "upcoming birthday". She was perplexed by the fact that we were so far from her friends and what it would be like, but she was willing to accept whatever came her way.
She described what she knew to expect, the invited guests (all twenty-something's, adult, cousins), the menu, the candy, and the fact that she did not expect many presents, but accepted knowing she'd be happy with the yummy menu (she shaped the menu: chicken satay with peanut sauce, Japanese Napa Cabbage salad, Chocolate Cake with Mocha frosting in the shape of a girl Lego character (John's creation), and lots of candy.)
As it turns out, she had a tall stack of presents and three other cruising children (ages: 8, 11, 13) were in dock and came aboard (either to play board games or to watch "Finding Nemo"). Jeff, Mei Ying, Laurie, Katie, Jordan and her family showered her with laughter, joy, DVD-Finding Nemo, Extreme Jenga game, Lego pieces, Computer Game Lego of Harry Potter, Math Blasters CD, Harry Potter UNO, dog stickers, puppy magnets, stitchery book, American Girl doll outfits, cool Newberry Award books, and a special rock quarts with the Chinese character longevity carved into it. All these generous gifts were a stunning surprise to her. Her joy was a true expression of gleeful greed and consumption. She was not at all disappointed with her special day. She was one "happy camper". By evening, a bit tired, she crawled into our arms and said "I don't feel much different from being 8, but it was a way cool party, today."
Sunny California, finally! Since arriving in San Diego it has been a low of cool, 55 degrees, but today, it is sunny and a warm 70 degrees.
We had a few showers, day before last, it had the girls out there taking down the laundry from the lines at the stern and at the bow to mast. John and I were off making phone calls and we were delighted that the girls were rescuing the laundry on their own initiative. Ah, this is good. We've found a good washing machine that uses centrifugal force and pressure to clean the laundry, appropriately named Wonder Wash, not quite a Maytag as it is only 18" by 12" and stashes neatly in our linen closet. We do lots of little loads at a cycle time of 2 minutes and human muscle power to rotate the tub. This is a lot better than the old bucket and plunger technique.
Like many of the cruising boats in San Diego, we are doing last minutes boat projects, provisioning and paper work. It is probably an endless effort and one that you'll tire of hearing in my journal reports. Some boats are dealing with ovens that won't work, several are dealing with radios that won't work, and all of us are grumpy about the San Diego Harbor Police rules and regulations (more on this in a bit).
Two days ago, John discovered that his pencil zincs in the engine's heat exchanger needed to be replaced. He was not confident that he would be able to find the zincs since we've had continual surprises with this Nissan Maxima car engine. As you recall, we had to replace the engine starter in Half Moon Bay. Luckily, the zincs were an "off the shelf" component and he was able to bicycle to a store and get one. On installing them today, the bolts on the heat exchanger busted. I wasn't here, but I understand that he was not a "happy camper". He called a few Marina shops that said they could not help him or that it would take him a few weeks to get it repaired. Finally, a marine store referred him to an auto repair shop in Escondido. He dialed the 1-800 number and the shop manager told him that they would be in Shelter Island, today and could pick the part up and repair it. They said that they could possibly; get the part back to him by tomorrow. Wow! We have to leave Shelter Island on Monday so we are cutting this close.
We connected with Laurie and Timmy, John's cousin. We were able to make our first stop on shore be to the Downwind Marine store. Every cruiser tries to get to Downwind Marine to get all the latest updates on the Mexican Consulate procedures for cruising in their country and all the latest updates on other cruisers.
When asked by LA and Timmy what the girls had been craving, Sami replied "pizza" and Gaby cried out for a bookstore. Sami is not usually a big eater, but she devoured two big slices of pizza and attempted a third. We can make pizza on the boat, but there is nothing like the occasional atmosphere of a candle lite restaurant dining hall, draped in red and white table clothes and the purple grapes hanging from the lattice work to make for a delicious pizza. By nightfall, we were all tired and happy to be in the anchorage.
Morning brought John rowing to shore to try and find us another anchorage, closer to the Orthodontist. He came back, discouraged. Many of the anchorages that we had frequented in 1991 had moorings with fees and the 72-hour limit attached to them. There was only one anchorage for cruisers, but it was full and no slots available. We heard other cruisers hailing on the radio to the San Diego Harbor Police for a slot at the public dock. There was much frustration in the voices we heard. We eavesdropped on cruisers talking to cruiser, trying to find slots in Marinas, none available. John tried on our cell to reach the SD Harbor Police and the nice staff person, told him that they were not expecting anything available (especially for a big boat-60'), finally after John gave it, his best "Queen for the Day" effort, she hinted that a slot might be open at the public docks at 8am, the next day. It was on a first come, first serve basis. John asked if he could tie up to the customs dock until the office opened. She replied "yes". We were hopeful.
Next morning, we rose at 4am to pull anchor and make our way from Mission Bay to Shelter Island. We motored in as dawn rose. It was a gorgeous morning with cumulus and stratus, gray, pink and orange clouds framing the sun upon its ascension.
By 0715 we were tied up to the Harbor Police's custom's dock. No one else was around. John hovered until the doors opened at 0800. We read all the signs that advised that it was first come, first serve. And that one was not to pull into a slip until cleared and the slip was paid for. Other cruisers came in behind him. He felt confident.
The young woman asked John what slip he was in. "Slip? I thought I was to come here first and pay, then move into a slip."
She replied, " Someone seems to be in the slip that we had open, and if that 's not you, then they get it." The people behind John looked chagrin, as they had pulled directly into the slip and were ready to pay. They had motored past the custom's dock and us and slipped on in.
Obviously, the sign that advised that one not pull into the slip was not heeded.
Discouraged, John went down to see if there was another open slips. People were bustling around, but nothing looked open. As he walked up the ramp, he noticed a boat side tied that looked like it was preparing to leave. He ran back down and hailed the captain of Espirit de Mer. John made his inquires and the Captain said, "Hey, it's open to the highest bidder. We are outta here!" Turns out we met the son-Jimmy; white shorthaired Labrador-Lucy and the Captain of Espirit de Mer when we were in anchor at Half Moon Bay. John scurried off to get Encanto. We owe them thanks!
Encanto had to parallel park, as a side tie, between two existing boats. On dock were four cruisers ready to catch our lines. It was a magnificent job of parallel parking. John definitely would have passed a DMV license exam.
If you plan to cruise here, be aware that the cost for staying on the public docks for a 50' or larger boat are $10/day for the first 5 days then $20/day for the next 5 days, a 10 day limit on your stay. Then you are back out there in the 72-hour shuffle, as we have learned to call it. We find that the Harbor Police in San Diego not terribly friendly or helpful to cruisers. We wonder if the Ba Ha Ha and all the hundreds of cruisers who must come through San Diego on our way to Mexico, have become as annoying for them as those who are "homeless"? We are learning from port to port that we as "transients" are quite often treated as the "homeless" and we are not welcomed as "tourist". It is a bit disconcerting and certainly an education.
Ah, finally here, we could start the boat projects.
The next few days would be spent doing homework, preparing for Sami's 9th birthday party, trying to get in touch with friends and relatives, boat projects, more laundry, more provisioning.
John joined Dirk (C sea Rider X) to the Mexican consulate and fisheries. Some of you will be interested that to cross the border in a boat 30' and over, one must have the following paperwork completed and processed:
Daily we meet other cruisers heading south. Now, we are beginning to connect with some cruisers that we met or saw up north. We share woes and wonders. That old fashion sense of a small community is beginning to feel wonderful
Today, we've been invited to the boat SV Genesis for our first happy hour. The couple (JP and Linda) have an 8th grader on board (Jordan).
I need to end this so I can make up a batch of Inari Sushi to bring over to their boat. The girls have finished school and are off at the local playground. John is making all too much noise cutting a pipe. The water maker is refilling the tank. While the orange, yellow and white hibiscus and the raspberry bougainvillea's sit in glorious bloom along the distant shoreline. All is well on Encanto.
Yes, we are in the San Diego Harbor Police docks on Shelter Island. We arrived in San Diego on November 6th. We left Santa Catalina on November 5th in a spontaneous effort to beat a storm that was due. We thought we would motor sail over to Dana Point to visit friends and refuel, but the conditions were perfect to just head south, so we did. We arrived on the coast at 2am. It remained nightfall and not sufficiently clear to enter the harbor so we slowed down and puttered our way along the coast. Upon entering the harbor at dawn, we motored straight to Mission Bay, where another cruiser (C sea Rider X) had said it was a free anchorage and very calm. We set anchor and went to sleep after having made an 18-hour passage. I can report that the passage was without drama or unpleasantness. Hurray! We like it that way. The girls and John had been finishing up a land cold virus. I had just caught it so the sleep was welcomed for all.
We stayed aboard the boat that next day, November 7th, learning by evening that this anchorage has a 72-hour limit for all transients. One must move to another anchorage, mooring or dock at a Marina. We must make it our objective to find an alternate anchorage place as we must stay in San Diego at least until Sami is check over by the local Orthodontist. We are near Sea World, but the girls feel that their ability to see dolphins, sea otters, and whales in the wild, has negated any need to go to Sea World. We stroll into the streets near the anchorage in search of a place to find some chicken and a library (that we hear is nearby). Our stroll was unsuccessful, so we rowed back to the boat after a quick call to relatives who live on Coronado Island.
0730 We connected with ham radio operator, sailor, and friend Doug Clark. Yahoo, we can talk to Northern California to Southern California and NO long distance fees!! It actually was wonderful to hear Doug's voice, even if only for the 10 minute check in. Felt like we weren't so isolated. It is a great comfort to know my mom can call Cor or Doug to inquire about our whereabouts. Oh, Waldo, where are you?
Yesterday, we expected to spend the day doing linen laundry (think sheets & towels), mount and install the autopilot and after school, go explore the natural habitat of the Channel Island. That was 0800.
By 0900 we heard the weather forecast; a storm to arrive by nightfall and extend through the weekend. We had no plans to spend four more days at Catalina as it wasn't as warm as we'd expected or as calm an anchorage.
By 1030, we were motoring to Dana Point for refueling. It was a great management observation moment; a time and motion study, as we all kicked into gear to prepare for departure. The girls shifted into cleaning up their legos, piles of clothing, and books that had scattered over the stay. Judy finished the laundry that was already underway and hung the sheet out to dry (get those drippy drops out) and prepare the galley and meals for an overnight passage. John hoisted up the dingy, cleared the deck and hoisted the stern anchor. WE were ready in what we thought was not too bad a time drill for departure. We had to be pleased with how the girls knew exactly what role they played without being told. Our efforts to instill independence, self reliance and responsibility to work with the family to move forward is working.
By 1100, change of course, and the Captain figured we had enough fuel to go straight to San Diego and gain the time spent in Dana Point. We'd arrive in San Diego just before dawn.
The night was overcast, only a few stars to steer by. As most sailors would admit, steering to the stars is so much more pleasant than the overcast or fog nights. The weather was so calm that we had to motor the entire way. We didn't want to go too fast as we'd arrive in the dark and then just have to pace up and down the coast in the dark. During my watch, I encountered a barge that was 1 mile off our starboard; it looked closer than that. Later, John was hailed by the Navy (think BIG guy), to change course with a request for us to be on the Navy ship's port side. A moment's pause as John plots this on our charts. My Captain hails Navy, "Ah, what if I change course to your starboard side, closer to land?" A moment's pause and a return: "That will work for me. Have a Good Morning." Whew. Sometimes that big boat/little boat dancing can be a bit tricky, especially at night and worst in the fog when you are relying entirely on lights, radar and your six sense of how big is BIG!
The mast has been dropped and it is full speed ahead into Mission Bay. We'll stay in San Diego for at least two weeks, as we have to get Sami to the orthodontist, visit relatives, friends, Costco/TJ (!), and most of all, celebrate Sami's 9th birthday with a movie and pizza. We hope to see the new Harry Potter movie; Sami is ravishing book #3 and Gaby is devouring book #5.
We left San Miguel at 0830 under high fog and light west wind, motoring south. Several times we saw whales breach in the distance before turning east towards Santa Cruz Island. Some of the sail was wing on wing sailing, but mostly it was a pretty benign passage. We arrived at Fry's Harbor at 1830.
On arrival there were two boats already in the deep cove. Fry's Harbor is one of the most popular anchorages for the Santa Barbara sailors to frequent. The last time we were here, a sailor told us that it was not unusual on a Friday night for there to be 50 boats cramped into the sheltered cove. However, strong canyon winds can be a problem at night. Fry's can be suicidal in strong NE winds.
We had been to Fry's Harbor in 1991 and it was a lovely anchorage. We went a shore and had long hikes, even exploring a ridge top of mounds of giant turbine shells. I wrote terrific poetry and life was as romantic and good as you can imagine. Back to 2003...it was cold, windy and the water's choppy. Going ashore for a hike was far from our imagination.....
Upon arrival, one boat had a stern anchor set, the other did not, leaving the Captain feeling a bit uncomfortable with where to set our anchor and how close we could come to either boat or shore. Ultimately, the BCC (the one without the stern anchor) hollered out that he did not swing much and he did not see a problem with us anchoring next to him. The Captain was not convinced of this. Encanto was moved closer to the center of the anchorage, a stern anchor thrown out- 20', 30' 40 of rod, but it would not hold. He set it again, but it would not hold. Finally, we moved closer to the opening and set the bow anchor and watched for any slippage. We seemed to hold, but being closer to the opening meant more exposure to the ocean swells. We rolled. We tossed. We spun. I kept up the seasickness cocktails to maintain upright. We ate simply and everyone retired early; we were fatigue from the long thirteen hours of wind and water.
Not a restful night for the Captain. John must have jumped up out of bed every hour or two to check our anchor. It was a long night. Anyone who thinks we are sitting with a martini glass and petite crackers, when we come into anchorage is not getting it. That is an illusion of the cruising life only portrayed in the Yachting Promotion Magazines. By 0700 we were all dressed in our best Patagonia wear (it was freezing), preparing for breakfast. At 0800 we got blown out of Fry's Harbor as Encanto tried to kiss the cliffs. The Captain pulled the anchor and I motored her out into the blister of the ocean. Later when we met up with Dirk on the BCC in Santa Catalina, he shared with us that the white foam out there as we left was a frightful sight. But, what choice did we have? We could not get the anchors to hold and the even in the best game of rock-paper-scissors OR in our case, rock-wind-steel, we were unlikely to win this round.
Great sail, yes, a great sail to Smuggler's Cove on Santa Cruz Island. Sailed her down in 20 knot winds. It took us about 4 hours, arriving at 1200. Fishermen sleep aboard their boats and a few sail boats were in the wide but well-protected cove. Well, well-protected from the southerly winds. Even though it was a sunny day, the cove was rolling so we didn't feel at ease to leave the boat or go ashore. In the distance, I could see olive orchards and a gently winding road that lead to an estate. It was obvious that this would be a good place to explore and my imagination was seeing the remnants of the Spaniards and the American influence on the lands. Still blowing 20 knot winds with over 1'chop, not chance of going ashore.
By morning the southwesterly's had kicked up and we hurriedly prepared for departure. We had not expected to leave until after midnight, but the winds were so strong that it was prudent to just get out of there. The sail from Santa Cruz Island to Santa Catalina was brisk. We knew it would be a long day sail, possibly 12 hours. Throughout the day Encanto held its own. John had her sailing up to 8 knots in 4'seas. She sailed well, enduring our confidence as the day progressed. We were thrilled when about 50 dolphins swam into to ride our bow wave. It was amazing, they just kept coming towards us. Some of the dolphins were jumping and turning belly flops. It was amazing, oh, I said that! Sam says it best: "THAT's so COOL".
We arrived into Santa Catalina at 2030, pitch dark and raining. We had not been to the Isthmus Cove so we were literally searching in the dark for the cove and moorings.
Rainy, dark, the star lost on the horizon and the boat hovered......
Like many sailors, in all our previous ventures to the Channel Islands, we had skipped visiting San Miguel Island as the anchorage has a reputation of being windy and unfriendly. It was calm, so we took the chance. The sun was bursting. The shades of the water turned from blue to green. The sandy beach beckoned. We went ashore to explore the beach and comb the shore for shells and agates. We met Ann & Brent, newlyweds from Washington State; reminded us of us, twelve years ago. They told us that at the end of the beach was a memorial plaque to Juan Cabrillo. Cabrillo was a Spanish government surveyor in 1543. He had died in Cuyler Cove, San Miguel Coast. Can you imagine what it must have been like to survey without GPS and aerial photography? My civil engineer friends have it so easy now, what a difference 500+ years can make to a profession. The tide was starting to rise and the winds intensified so we never actually made it to the plaque, instead, rowing back to the boat. On the way, yet another boat came into anchorage- SV Eros- a couple doing a "shake down cruise" from San Diego north. They are trying to decide if they will take their boat down south into Mexico.
Ann & Brent leave San Miguel Island as we are boarding our boat. We wonder if they know something we do not. John checks the weather report and we decide to get one more good night of sleep before heading south to Santa Cruz Island. The passage will take all day.